| Current location: | seated |
| Current music: | i missed a few chaos emeralds |
closeout
Early in the trip it looked like some arctic ocean (eh), now the sun is coming out again as the surf builds back up. Could be too much too soon as it's scheduled to hit advisory levels by Christmas day. Today at pine trees it was a fun time in the crystal blue water aside from getting thrown repeatedly into the sand bar on every closeout. The bowl is looking good lately but shallow as hell. Cut open my hand on a rock when I tried to paddle out a few days ago. Rich claims he surfs the bowl every day. I'm not sure I believe that. Should be an interesting Christmas.
(No comments)
Post a comment in response:
![[info]](http://l-stat.livejournal.com/img/userinfo.gif){kind=small}
takaitakai) wrote,
